Diving into Mostar

 When we stepped off the bus in Mostar we were greeted by our airbnb hostess. She took our bags, she gave us hugs, she welcomed us and then she managed to fit in all six of us and our luggage into her small five seater that already had a partially full trunk. We were squeezed in tight with bags on top of ourselves but still I was incredibly flattered. What is more flattering than someone bending the law a touch to show you they care? When we parked in front of the apartment the hostess said in her same enthusiastic voice there is the apartment and there is the prison. I thought she was joking at first but sure enough we were right across from the prison. A surprisingly cheery looking place. When our hostess left us in her apartment she blew me about five kisses. This was the perfect airbnb hostess and the perfect introduction to Mostar. Living across from a prison was kind of exciting. The prisoner neighbours were quiet we got a kick out of people sitting on our wall hollering up to their family or buddy behind bards, and we all liked to imagine their stories. 

Mostar is a small city surrounded by mountains with a vibrant and sometimes turbulent past. Once one of the most intercultural cities of the country, the conflict of the 90's has left the town recovering. So much of the city was destroyed that even after thirty years of recovery visible conflict damage is still everywhere. But it is the invisible that residents are recovering from the most as the city is left with an east west divide of loyalties. Once a city that boasted the highest number of intergroup marriages and harmony now each side has its own infrastructure and loyalties. A young honest guide at a museum told us that the invisible divide is a big challenge and she has only been to the west half of the city a handful of times in her life. 

Mostar was a hot city. The internet claims it to be the second hottest city in Europe and, being there in an August heat wave, that seemed an undeniable claim.  By nine am it was over thirty degrees and much of the day the sun beat down at 40. The heat weighed down on us so we quickly reoriented our schedule to hide indoors and do schoolwork in the hottest part of the day. The river is cold and offers a reprieve from the hot weather but the locals all advise not to enter the river as it is very polluted. We did anyhow but we quickly learned you need to rinse off thoroughly or you are left feeling the after effects of whatever they are dumping into the river. 

Diving is very important in Mostar and is an integral part of the culture. A lot of tourism involves coming to Mostar to jump off the 25 meter Stari bridge. The history of jumping the bridge goes back a long way and was a rite of passage for boys. The first recorded bridge jump was in the 1600's and local lore dictated that a young man could not get a job or girlfriend if he did not jump off the bridge. After the war in the 90s with the bridge destroyed part of recovery was immediately setting up a makeshift platform so locals could once again jump into the river. Once a year there is a diving competition from the bridge and diving platforms of lower heights 8m and 12m (higher in the Summer) have been set up near the river for the towns and tourists entertainment. Tova jumped both and was very entertained. This diving culture was also very prevalent at the swimming pool. Most pools have a no jumping rule but the Mostar pool seems to have little rules and encouraged diving by adding in extra platforms all around the pool. The centre of the pool seems to be of little interest to most people as local children and adults seem to spend much of their time diving off the edges or sitting around the perimeter drinking and smoking. This was the perfect situation for Tova and the girls spend multiple afternoons diving over and over and over again into the pool. Levana mostly waddled around the kiddy pool while I marvelled at the multitude of drinking smoking parents surrounding us. Within arms reach was definitely not a thing in Mostar. In fact the pool didn't seem to have a lifeguard at all. 

Seems I have a lot to say about Mostar and took a lot of photos. It was a hot but fun spot to hang out. Tova got to jump from higher than she has ever jumped before. I got to turn 42 for the first time in my life there. We got to have prisoners and bombed out buildings as neighbours for the first time ever. It was a small feeling town filled with very nice people despite its turbulent recent past. 

Mostar

                                         

The old library

Sketching paintings at a private museum that was wildly entertaining as its fancy vibe and lights off approach felt more London than Mostar. Also we got to be in a room alone with Degas little dancer. Actually we got the whole museum to ourselves (no guards even!). 

Birthday breakfast - a rare treat where we went to a place that has white tablecloths

Birthday run

Mostar waking up

The mosaic in this rebuilt church was amazing and the motifs of burning and renewal apt

Had to wake up quite early to manage mountain hikes without the side effect of sun stroke

The cross, the motorcycle, the way they sat in age order...

View from the sniper building. It is closed to entry with a large fence but they conveniently leave the gate open so that people can enter anyways. 

Ottoman vibes

I really liked this work of art

Tova really liked these concrete barriers on our street

Building next to us -  we spent a lot of time trying to figure out how the people living in the upper levels enter the building and why they still live there. 

Bridge Jumper (courtesy of Aurora)