Saturday, 6 June 2026

Bonjour Au revoir in Pau

 That time of year has rolled around again where Aurora and Sophia have to take exams. It has been kind of intense fitting two exam periods into one year but that is just the way it worked out after half a year off to walk Japan. This time around we found a school in Pau, France, which was accomodating to both Aurora and Sophia's exam needs. Also fitting that Aurora has managed to complete the three main exam sets on three different continents. Point for us and double points for the crazy large influence of the British education system. The school in Pau is much different than the last one in Kuala Lumpur. The staff are more laid back and open, with the biology teacher coming to cheer on the students with a giant toy lizard before each biology exam. 

Pau has been a lovely town to relax in. It is beautiful and peaceful. There is always that hopeful view of the mountains on the horizon. There is a palace (Henry IV was born here!). There are lots of bakeries. There is a river.  There are cobblestones and spires. Everything one could hope for in France. Here are a few things that also come to mind. 

The library here is a mediatheque. At first I was dubious of this progressive new title as my interest is in books rather than media. However, in moving with the times I think they pull off the distinction excellently. A mediatheque seems to be a library with perks. A floor dedicated to video, CD, and record loans. A small room for video game play and loans. Access to computers and printers. Finally, a big internal courtyard where there are regular concerts. I really enjoyed sitting in the kids section reading books to Levana on Sunday mornings while the live music drifted up from below. 

The lunches here are epic. Pau really is most alive between the hours of noon and two pm. Shops all open late and most things close early (including public transportation). The middle of the day however by far makes up for the quiet mornings and evenings. People stop work. Kids leave school. Shops close. Everyone piles into the streets for a long, leisurely and social lunch or stroll. How glorious these terrace lunches seem to me. Such a great tradition. With the small caveat that smoking is prevalent on the terraces. 

There are many social rules and norms in France. My favourite, that is universally adhered to in Pau, is the practice of saying hello and goodbye. It is considered quite rude not to greet a person before speaking to them or when entering any building. Similarly, at the completion of any transaction or on departure you must thank the person and say farewell. This holds true even when entering and exiting a bus. It must be much nicer being a bus driver when each person says hello to you and then hollers out their thanks and farewell on departure. Seems kind of normal but it did make me realize that we don't really consistently do this. So the children and I have doubled down on ensuring we always greet and farewell. 


Quiet mornings
 

Mediatheque concert

The river


Just in case we forgot the name

Tova's favourite activity - in the mediatheque lobby


Neighbouring Lourdes

Mountains behind Lourdes

Games at the mediatheque

Baking like the locals - choquettes

Lake in neighbouring Orthez

She made herself a reading nook






Andorra has it right

 Sometimes it is the small out of the way spots that have the most character to them. This was definitely the case with Andorra. I have been itching to get into the mountains. From Pau we have a grand view of the Pyrenees but without a car they are just a touch too far away. The girls had a week long gap in their exam schedule and a country completely up in the highest of the Pyrenees seemed just the spot for a getaway. 

Andorra is one of three sovereign principalities in the world (other two are Monaco and Lichtenstein) and the only co-principality (shared by president of France and Spanish Bishop of Urgel). Andorra is a country of extremes. On the one hand Andorra's capital, Andorra la Vella, is the highest capital city in Europe. On the other Andorra has the highest smoking rate in the world at 36%. On the one hand Andorra is fairly inaccessible and has no airport. On the other hand one of the main reasons people come to Andorra is to shop. On the one hand Andorra is a hikers and skiiers paradise. On the other hand Andorra is a destination vacation for those seeking to buy alcohol, cigarettes and weapons. Basically, Andorra does what it takes to makes its mark when its entire country is composed of high alpine valleys. 

It was a fascinating place to visit. I liked how the capital had to squeeze itself into a fairly narrow valley with steep mountains on all sides and multiple rivers running through it. I liked that the country is so small and intimately connected with the mountains that the public transportation is as good as a trail bus. I liked that only 4% of the country is built up. I liked that even though the country is small and secluded they all learn multiple European languages. But really most of all I just liked the mountains. It is not a country for the weak thighed. Every hike we did was beautiful and I could probably have stayed there much longer gradually bulking up in lower body strength and lung capacity. Lots of countries have mountains but there is something really special about the countries that are exclusively mountain. 


The capital

Walking the main shopping street


Kind of the best country abbreviation


Andorra Le Vella from above

All the valleys are this picturesque


I could live in this valley

Mountains in the Spring

Got a bit of snow hiking in


We have one movie on our computer - frozen





Dix-huit ans

 We managed to raise a child to the age of majority. Well done us. But mostly well done Aurora for turning into such a great and kind adult. I could gush about all the great things that Aurora is but really she doesn't like that kind of flattery so suffice it to say that she is that perfect pebble. You know that one that is picked up by a river, has just the right amount of heft, a slight sheen to it, a subtle but soothing pattern, nicely rounded edges, with a surface that is not perfect but perfect enough to make you never want to let it out of your grasp. Anyways,  Aurora knows what I am talking about. Usually we play a game or two on Aurora's birthday. This year Pau really knew how to celebrate her coming of age as the annual game convention coincided with her birthday. A big auditorium full of people coming together to play games was a convivial way to up a year. Rather than posting photos of Aurora (she doesn't like that either) I am posting 18 photos of the street we have been living on for the past month and half. It is a beautiful street and I started taking a photo of it each day as I enjoyed the way it changed subtly. Aurora took it as an invitation to have a best photo competition. Each of us now has dozens of photos of our street in Pau. I am posting 9 of Auroras and 9 of mine. I know Monet would be proud of us. 

Tamar
Aurora
 
Tamar
Aurora


Tamar
Aurora


Tamar
Aurora



Tamar
Aurora


Tamar
Aurora

Tamar

Tamar

Aurora

Aurora


Tamar
Aurora




Tuesday, 2 June 2026

The eternal garden

 I first met Peter when I was still a teenager. He was welcoming in his affable way. I was intrigued by him and the whole family in the way a newly minted adult is intrigued by different ways of life. His relationship with Jakob was like something I imagined only existed in the movies as it was always happy and pleasant and hearty. Very quickly I learned that everyone in Peter's sphere got that same kind of attention. Peter always knew what to ask so that he could be involved in your life. He always knew how to have just the right conversation to interest and engage the listener. To be that person felt special. 

Thank you Peter for making me feel a part of the family. 

Peter was always very clear on the things that concerned him. I adored these small conversations or emails from him because unlike most other people who expressed their fears and objections to me- with Peter it was always logical. I would look up facts regarding his worry and reply in an evidence based manner and he would do the same in return until we inevitably came to a conclusion.  When we told him that we were crossing the high Sierras at Donner pass in late Autumn he made it clear he was uncomfortable with the plan. The solution was that Peter came with us. It was a great 10 days of mountain walking with Peter.

Thank you Peter for walking beside us in person and not just words. 

When I got cancer Peter immediately started researching treatment options and scenarios. He never assumed any decision was correct until he himself had done his research. He never stopped researching because the truth is never black and white. Long after most had forgotten all about my cancer Peter was still (until now) asking about thyroid management and researching ideal results and medication dosages. 

Thank you Peter for never stopping to care and seek the answers. 

I always liked the way Peter offered up tea. He was not the cook in the family but he took his role as evening provider of drinks seriously. Without fail he would stop whatever he might be doing to come offer and have tea with Kristin in the evening. If you were around the offer would be extended to you too. I didn't always want tea just before bed but I did love being offered tea. And I really liked that even when I said no numerous times Peter never stopped offering. 

Thank you Peter for the company. 

Peter had a way with children. He never had to do much for children to come scrambling his way. His stories weren't the longest or most brilliant and still they were always the best. I think children could just sense that here was a man who would listen to them and treat them right without any fancy toys or tricks. He talked fondly of De Bono but I would have liked to have read Peter's book on child interaction. My children were all lucky to have him in their lives and I feel sad for the smaller grandchildren who will miss out on that experience. 

Thank you Peter for understanding and loving children. 

So many memories of Peter flying across the world to be with us - Peter and Kristin walking the last few miles with us to the Pacific ocean, Peter and Kristin laughing over Singapore slings, Peter up on an elephant with a small Aurora, Peter and Kristin searching for kangaroos and koalas in the bush, Peter's hands stained purple from hours of crouching in the blueberry bushes with the kids, Peter on our walks into Grimstad offering to buy me any house I commented on, Peter on the boardwalk working in the Canary Islands, Peter walking the alphabet trail with Aurora in Fontainebleau, Peter and Kristin building snowmen and playing scrabble in Chamonix. 

Thank you Peter for so many fun times. 

To the end Peter made all of us feel important. 
Peter and I were different in many ways but we shared the same endless curiosity in the working and minutiae of the world, a desire for truth and logic to prevail, and a strong love of the natural world. I will truly miss your company and presence.  

The great teacher!
                                       

The enthusiasm!


The skill!

The pure joy!


Thursday, 14 May 2026

Wine Country

 It is no surprise that when people think of France they think of wine. France had been producing wine for 2000 years and produces 20% of wine worldwide.  Of all the places in France, the most popular for wine production is the Bordeaux region. Most of the world's most expensive wines come from France, and of those nearly all are from the Bordeaux region. Of the wines in the Bordeaux regions the wines of St Emilion are among the top. 

We stayed for a week in Libourne which is one train stop from St Emilion. Libourne is a small city or a large town that has a cute historic core with a long, less cute, semi-circle of suburby feeling housing and buildings around it. The town felt like it has once been of great importance and was trying hard to once again feel important. Libourne had a surprisingly large population of asylum seekers. I tried to read up on why this was the case and to the best of my new knowledge it is due to the city of Bordeaux attracting an unsupportable number of asylum seekers and to appease angry residents the responsibility was shifted outwards. While eventually things will reach a new equilibrium this influx of residents seemed to give the community an off kilter sense of unity. The situation of asylum seekers against the background of the extreme wine wealth was somehow unsettling. All my reading on France and their approach to asylum seekers was a little sad. I have no miracle answer but somehow still feel like there surely are better solutions. 

 In contrast, St. Emilion, one train stop over, felt like a town whose wealth has never stopped rolling in since the moments vineyards were first planted. The town is postcard perfect with its immaculate quaint core and its undulating hills of highly cultivated and tended to vineyards and chateaux. We took a few walks around the hills of St Emilion and could not get over the grandiosity of the vineyard chateaux. Who knew that to live in a palace you have to be a viticulturist? 


One of the humbler vineyards

Tova in Bordeaux. We thought of going to the wine museum but neither of us drinks wine so we went to the climbing gym.


Pretty sure these roof beams have never been used in this way before


This is how we sightsee



Nice place to walk

St Emilion as seen from the vineyards


Springtime in Paris

When Aurora was four and we lived in Fontainebleau, we were within commuting distance to Paris. While Aurora loved our life in Fontainebleau, she was entirely unimpressed with Paris. I ended up going a few times on school days because her enthusiasm for the city was so low. She claimed it was too loud and it smelled bad. And it was loud and often did smell bad! Still, it is Paris. But I have since learned that Aurora was not alone in her feelings, and an entire syndrome - Paris Syndrome -  has been named after the let down of real Paris compared to mythical Paris.