Walking fast in the West End

 Staying in inner city London seemed like a privilege I should not take for granted. Honestly at first London is a bit of a shock. It is full of noise and movement. Everyone is so incredibly fast and busy. It is an always overbooked running late trying to keep up kind of place. London changes fast and the residents all have to focus entirely on their next step to keep up. In Paris the locals sat in parks reading novels and chatting over their lunch breaks. In London locals grab uninspired grocery store sandwiches and eat while walking. Greatness always comes at a cost. And for all its faults and lack of humanness - London is great. There are more free museums and sights in London than a person could explore in a lifetime. There is history in every brick and scrap of river mud. There is a diversity in the streets and culture of London that is unlike I have seen anywhere else. What a novelty to be in a place where we speak the main language and are unremarkable in our differences. 

Aside from a relaxed pace and inner peace, London has everything. As travelers our children often have to make certain social and life style sacrifices - London was a chance for them to pursue some harder to find hobbies. Tova got to take a few flying trapeze classes. These classes inspired rather than satiated her flying trapeze passion. Tova got to join tumbling classes that focused entirely on flips. There seems to be a definite flying propensity in her hobbies. Sophia and Tova joined the local gymnastics squad. And all of us got a one month climbing gym membership. We also took advantage of the West end performance offerings. Even Jakob got to see a Shakespeare play at the Globe as the standing area was the perfect fit for him. 

We will be happy to move back to a slower pace of life and cost of living but it was a very lovely month in London. 

The basin

This sculpture really says a lot

This is a lost art that should be revived. Also I wonder if his unbuttoned shirt is part of his image?

Photo and experience courtesy of Jaylynn

Gosh we got great weather all month

Making all the right friends

Our little foundling

How to do yoga in the inner city

Museum faces

Her natural element

This is how we roll

West enders

We felt so 16th century even though the building was build in the 90s.

Climbing in the arches

Finally some cold windy autumn weather for evensong at Westminster Abbey

Off to the races

On arrival in the UK we spent a few days in Windsor before entering city life. Windsor was everything I would have imagined if I had ever really thought much about Windsor. Right across the river from Eton college with the royal family’s palace dominating the centre of town you can imagine that Windsor is a well tended to spot. Tidy and quaint and cute with most buildings created in an era where there seemed to be an excess of bricks (late 1800’s). Our old brick abode felt like full on luxury with a small garden, dedicated dining room and attic loft awash with sunlight. Windsor is a very walkable place with plenty of green spaces from river walks to the long straight walk through the palace estate. 

Not far from Windsor is another place I never really thought much about even if I’d hear the name - Ascot. Turns out horse racing is a big thing in England and a very big thing in Windsor where the Royal Ascot, one of the biggest horse racing events in the country, takes place. When I found out there would be a horse race on the weekend we were in Windsor I immediately decided that going to a horse race was something that would welcome me to England in the way one wants to be welcomed. Also, Id never been to a horse race so was curious to see what it was all about. Except the thing about horse racing at Ascot is that it is very much a society event and as a society event there are strict dress code rules. During the Royal ascot event the dress code is strict and involves mandatory millinery or fascinators. At the less important events they are more relaxed for those in the cheapest area. Still even the more relaxed events have a strict ban against all sports wear and sneakers and a request to ‘dress smart.’ Not knowing what smart implied I did my own research and quickly found out that summer dresses or skirt suits in muted colours are smart. What is not smart is my entire wardrobe. The girls and I decided to go on a tour of the Windsor op shops in the hopes of some cheap items to get us in the door. After the first shop Tova started to become despondent - ‘This isn’t worth it at all’ came out of her mouth over and over again. After trying on a few dresses that looked alright but felt awful I finally bought some burgundy velvet pants on a whim. Surely velvet is smart? As I left the shop and looked at my meagre effort at presentable I felt a bit down trodden by my utter inability to enter upper crust British society. Red velvet pants are definitely not a ‘smart’ item. But hey they at least aren’t quick dry or jeans. It was surprisingly difficult to find any cheap shoes that didn’t involve heels. The final outcome was respectable looking but too small. But hey I thought I am used to wearing climbing shoes so this should be not that different. If you are reading this and you are feeling a sense of dread for me then I don’t blame you. Id read that a stylist stands at the entrance to asses each spectators acceptability. A small curious part of me was hoping the stylist might stop me just so I could hear what advice exactly she might provide to me. Though, I also feared she would just look me up and down with that expression of disbelief and pity and futility. When I tried to buy non sneakers and pants for Tova she repeated her mantra and than took an actual stand in declaring that she was not coming to the horse races because it just wasn’t worth having to buy shoes. 

It was frivolous but it was worth it. Sophia and I went to the races and it was a cultural experience. The venue was so much more posh and extensive than I ever imagined. The grass was such a brilliant green and the building so shiny and swarming with staff. Women wore the most useless head contraptions you could ever imagine. Men lounged in chairs pouring over newspapers. Horses were paraded around for spectators to inspect. There was such stratification of class. Guards guarded escalators and roads and enclosures where only the chosen could enter. The royal family has their own large private box that sits empty when they are not there. According to one of the staff I interrogated the royal family were regulars while Queen Elizabeth was alive but attendance has since dwindled. This was the kind of England from novels. There were seven races that day and Sophia and I prepared for the first with glee. It quickly became apparent that much of horse racing is about rubbing shoulders with the right people, drinking, and betting. I got a staff member to divulge every detail she knew about betting and then I placed two bets. One for horse to win and one for a horse to place in top three. Each bet was for an astounding two pound (the minimum). I held my small slips of paper eagerly feeling very posh in my tight shoes. And then the first race happened and Sophia and I looked at each other in surprise because it lasted about two minutes. Bit anticlimactic but then again my horse won and I made a whopping three pound sixty - nearly doubling my initial generous investment. Bolstered by the win I placed another bet of two pound. Sophia and I milled around and rubbed shoulders and inspected horses in the sunshine. We noticed that as the races progressed and blood alcohol levels rose the crowd became a little genteel. Sophia was also intrigued but the large amounts people bet and the fact that they watched other horse races at the same time as attending the one we were at. It was a fascinating outing. I lost 2 pound sixty and have some shoes I don't know what to do with but it was well worth it for the experience. 

We could tell we were headed the right way

The opulence

A girl with a retired race horse

Inside the building

First and maybe last time I have placed a bet

Parading the horses before the race

Milling

Here we are looking smart

Two minutes of glory

Culinary trends in Belgrade

Sometimes the quest for cheaper flights leads to pleasant itineraries. Our visit to Belgrade came about as the cheapest flight to Cyprus involved an overnight layover in Serbia. Once you are taking a bus into town you may as well stay a few days. Due to volatile plans, we didn't even end up going to Cyprus - still we enjoyed our days in Belgrade. Our apartment looked over the large Kalemegdan fortress grounds and the river beyond. We got a lot of enjoyment out of living right near a great historically happening park. 

One thing we found interesting in Belgrade were two noticeable food trends. There seemed to be a trend towards soft health foods. This was the ideal situation for Tova who has lost a few too many teeth this month. There were ads and stands for the newest energy booster item - pouches with various smoothies and conconctions. I got Tova a pouch and we were surprised that it was essentially a bad version of kids apple sauce pouches. Guess this trend is targeting the recent adults who grew up on apple sauce pouches. Most bakeries and cafes had sections of plastic cups filled with various fancy looking pudding type things. We didn't try this but probably should have. Also hip were various yogurt and oatmeal bowls. We tried this at two seperate cafes. One felt overpriced whereas the other overnight oats bowl Tova loved dearly. Why the trend toward soft foods? Are they really healthier? 

Another odd food trend in Belgrade was the large number of dumpling shops. It is not a city with a big Asian vibe or influence so the large number of dumpling shops seemed unexpected. Still, we like dumplings so it seemed like an opportunity. The dumpling shop we chose was run by a young Serbian who was as friendly as he was chatty. It was the middle of the day and it was just us and him in the restaurant so it was a convivial experience. I learned a lot about the difficulties of making it as a small restaurant and navigating the delivery apps and systems. His vision of owning a restaurant did not include all the digital navigation that is required of him. His shop was the second dumpling shop to open in town and he had no idea why all of a sudden in the span of a year the number went from two to many. He had a large table filled with wooden logic puzzles. This was a personal passion and a push to get people off their phones. The girls and I had so much fun with the puzzles we stayed long after our food was done. The dumplings were great. 

Finally, unrelated to trends we went to another interesting spot that is worth mentioning because it was run by a former engineer from India with a strong belief that food should never be put in a refrigerator. He rented a small shop front and set it up to look like a well loved living room. From the small kitchen he makes Indian foods and curries and juices in small batches. He says his initiative is not so much a restaurant as a community initiative to bring healthy fresh food for cheap to the community while also serving as a community hub. He has no refrigerator in his kitchen but rather a wall full of spices and a lot of enthusiasm and love for anyone who walks in his door. It was nice to meet someone going counter the money making trends. We enjoyed his meals and his company. Some people exude a certain energy and enthusiasm which is inspiring. 

                                                             

One of many statues in fort grounds

                 

Learning about electricity

Tesla's reamins are in this orb. We couldnt figure out how they got ashes into the sphere. 

So much gold leaf!

Sisters

Trying not to cry in the sunset 

Serbian orthodox church 

Spiritual or a good actress?

Yogurt bowl at a three story cafe

Sunset walk

Coffee and Cigarettes

The culture of Bosnia is intricately linked with coffee and cigarettes. Coffee came to Bosnia via the Ottomans over 500 years ago. Bosnians has a distinct way of making and serving coffee and many rituals surrounding it. It is served in traditional copper coffee making and serving dishes. There is a cultural idea of cejf which involves taking pleasure and time in your coffee. Bosnians appear to live true to this concept as they sit with their coffee for a long time. Cafes have a lot of seating as it would be unthinkable to hurry up a customer. It is normal to socialize with others while drinking their coffee. Rarely did I see anyone looking at a cell phone while at a cafe. It is a rare thing in todays world to have people spend so much time just sitting enjoying each others company or just sitting on their own enjoying the quiet and flavour. 

Hand in hand with drinking coffee is smoking cigarettes. No cup of coffee is complete without cigarettes to accompany. Actually, people smoke even when not having coffee. They seem to smoke all the time. Rules made to ban smoking indoors have been largely unsuccessful as they are ignored. The cafe in the Mostar mall would lose a lot of business if they disallowed smoking - so they don't. The dentist smelled like cigarette smoke, the grocer smelled like cigarette smoke, the blood testing centre smelled like cigarette smoke, the airport smelled like cigarette smoke. We went to get Tova a haircut - the hair dresser and her partner were sitting outside having coffee and cigarettes. They looked longingly at their cups of coffee and cigarettes before finally caving and agreeing to cut her hair. Bosnia has one of the highest smoking rates in the world. We have been to other countries with a high prevalence of smoking but Bosnia is a level up in commitment. I really am not that indulgent of smokers. Still, in Bosnia I felt it made sense. During the siege of Sarajevo there was a shortage of food. Cigarettes were manufactured in the city and they managed to keep up production throughout the four year siege. Cigarettes became currency and many people were paid in cigarettes. With little food and water and a daily risk of being shot cigarettes were the ideal available solution to calm nerves and suppress appetites. Maybe I also would have taken up smoking? 

Bosnia has been a lot of fun. The people are kind and low stress. It is a country with a difficult past and a strenuous political system but manages to put on a smile and enjoy life anyways. I wont take up coffee and cigarettes but hopefully some of the culture of cejf will wear off on us. We can all learn to sit a little longer with life's people and pleasures.

Doing our best to enjoy cafe life. Really is a shame that I don't like coffee.

In a museum courtyard - a statement or just negligence?

She was excited for her first dentist appointment. Cheapest check up ever too as all general check-up were free

Looking good Sarajevo!

A Sarajevo rose with the sunlight aptly illuminating. These are mortar spots where someone lost their life.

From city to peak and back again in a day by foot 

Mountain views

Old bobsled track from 1984 Olympics

If you zoom in you can see the flag is torn in half. Kids were more interested in blackberries

Sarajevo Haggadah. I probably won the competition of most questions asked of attendant. 

Tova's body language when we finally left the Haggadah room

Tova picking blackberries at old Jewish cemetery - literally the most neglected and abused cemetery I have ever seen.

Sarajevo film festival

We happened to arrive in Sarajaevo during the well known film festival. The festival started in the  90's when Sarajevo was still under siege as an act of defiance and noralacy. From there it grew in size and prestige. We don't go to many movies. In fact, I've only been to the movie theatre with my children a few times. But it seemed like a good chance to be a part of a cultural event and the festival has a few films meant specifically for children. So, we found ourselves heading to our first film hoping that Levana's attention would be captivated enough to sit still for an hour and a half. The experience of going to the youth theatre was an enjoyable activity. Sponsors had games set up and doled out prizes. Each viewer was given a juice. Half the theatre was made up of the youth jury which was interesting to observe. Actually the whole theatre had very few adults and gave us a glimpse into the lives of Sarajevan children. The king of all wanderers was a Dutch film about a girl whose father comes back after five years away. The girl's mother bans her from spending time with her father but is evasive on the reasons. It becomes obvious to the watcher and slowly to the child that her father, while an enthusiastic parent, is homeless and has schizophrenia. After the film the creator came in to answer questions of which the youth jury had many. We were all mesmerised by the way such heavy themes were discussed through a child's perspective. Levana sat through the whole film. Bolstered by the fun experience we decided to go all in. 

I scoured the program for any films that would be appropriate to my entire family. Most of the films had very serious or dark themes making them inappropriate for children. The evening before Aurora flew back to Norway four of us (Sophia graciously stayed home with Levana) walked along the river to a bigger theatre to watch Bear with Me. The viewing included a short film about the gossip surrounding a bear sighting in a small Croatian town in asparagus season. It was a lighthearted short film that dealt with the negative effect of social media on small populations. The maker of the film came in for questions. Bear with Me was a documentary in Bulgarian about a former circus animal trainer, Maxy, who lives with a bear (Natasha) behind a zoo in the Netherlands after being forced to give her animals away due to changes in public opinions on animals in circuses. They are allowed to live in this way until Natasha's death (which turned out to be much longer than anyone expected). The creator did a great job of presenting the animal rights activists point of view, a history of Maxy's amazing life and the current reality for Maxy and Natasha. The team of creators as well as the good friends of Maxy came in to speak at the end of the film as it was the international premiere of the film. Tova is still talking about how Maxy's best friend was bawling as she walked in front of the audience. 

Splish Splash Summer was another film from the children's program. By now the kids were into the whole film festival vibe and eagerly took their bag of plazma and juice into the line to enter. At less than four dollars a person (including snack and drinks) going to the film festival was honestly the most affordable activity we did in Sarajevo. The topic was lighthearted, involving a small town in Germany that is forced to close its swimming pool and a young girls quest to save the pool. Because it had lighter themes the theatre was packed full of children (mostly under the age of 10). They were an enthusiastic audience and the few responsible adults in the room were forced to walk around the whole time shushing everyone. There seemed to be a lot of running in the aisles during the film. Guess that is what happens when you give children juice and cookies and expect them to sit still. It was a fun film but the kids all felt it was a little on the dramatic side. Still, it did a good job of showing how kids can change a government decision. 

Our final film was in the teen category. The film Girls don't Skateboard was a North Macedonian film about two poor teen Roma sisters who like to skateboard and are grappling with an impending arranged marriage. I kind of thought there would be lots of footage of skateboarding that the kids would enjoy, but, there was little skateboarding. It was a great film but definitely not meant for young children. Levana diligently ate her snack of juice and biscuits and then was eager to leave. Luckily she then just fell asleep. After the film the creator and main actress came up to answer questions. The cast were all Roma actors and we learned a lot about Roma challenges. Once we left the kids had lots of questions and I had to give them a crash course on the intricacies of teen marriage, virginity, and the use of blood on sheets to confirm a successful marriage. Definitely an unexpected learning moment. 

We didn't come to Sarajevo for the film festival but we were all glad to get to take part. Four films, from four locations, four very different themes, over five days. The children learned about mental health issues, animal rights issues, local advocacy issues, and Roma and teen marriage issues. 

Questions after a film

We also did things that weren't films

Cafe with a view

Poster child of the film festival

Stone jumping at the source of a river

View above old town

There she is ready with her bag of plazma cookies

Film festivals can be tiring