Thinking Allowed: Where Pizza is real life

The cheapest way to get to Cyprus involved a stopover in Italy so we decided to turn the stopover into a few days of carb overloading. Last time we visited Naples it made a lasting impression. First, because of the responses of others regarding a Naples visit - Naples is a city people love to hate. If you tell someone you are going to Naples the response will invariable be 'why?' followed by tales of pickpockets, gangs, and life's general dangers. And it is true that those looking to visit the Italy in the media will feel a great sense of disappointment at visiting Naples. Yet, the reaction that Naples stirs up is so intense it seems authentically Italian. Second, because of the pizza. We had been to Italy a number of times and eaten pizza in many different countries but the Naples pizza was, and is, by far the best. Which makes sense as that is where pizza was invented. Also, to be considered Neapolitan pizza there are still strict rules: 0 or 00 flour, fresh yeast, hand kneading, shaped by hand, and cooked no more than 90 seconds in an 800 degree wood fired oven. The children have heard for years about the Jakob's favourite Naples pizza restaurant and they were all eager to try it themselves.

Naples is definitely its own world. It is hectic and wild and dirty. Half the clothes in the city are black ( I know because most of the city hangs their clothes from their balconies) and everyone does look like they are trying to perfect their look of intimidation. The motorbikes seem to be immune to all rules and are often driven by children. Parts of the city look like scenes out of hundred year old novels. But there's also a lot of enthusiasm going around. It is a rare place where even the gangsters are highly moral and hold religion and family as sacred and could be brought to tears by a good meal. No matter how intimidating a person looks they will always stop to smile and interact with our baby. On Sundays, groups of students take to the streets as marching bands and pour their heart (and volume) into whatever tune they are playing. Fresh mozzarella is more of life force than a topping (please look up videos on Zizzona). All in all, Naples is really more of a feeling than a city. You have to get into the feeling to really appreciate what it has to offer a traveller. It was a nice to get to be a part of that feeling for a few days. And now we are also happy for a less caffeinated vibe!