Thinking Allowed: Day 97-99: Kitanada to Uchiyama

Day 97: Kitanada to Yawatahama

Hours walked: 8:00-4:40

Distance walked: 31 km

Cumulative: 2,145 km

We had all sorts of tunnels today. One had a pathetic little sidewalk that was exactly the width of the stroller, meaning its outer wheel was constantly on the verge of sliding into the busy road. One was very long, over 2 km, but fortunately with an ample sidewalk so it felt like a holiday. Next, we got our very own personal tunnel where we made lots of noise. Even Levi joined in, she’s getting good at whooping and yelling into the echoes.

Otherwise we strolled along the ocean all day, sometimes losing our beloved sidewalk and scurrying from side to side as the road twisted through hilly patches. We’ve read a lot of Friday Barnes out loud lately; Sophia has meanwhile just reread all three Lunar Chronicles books and now we’re making her read Silent Spring.

We reached Yawatahama near dusk, relieved to have finished a long day. Our ryokan was so charming: the family that runs it cooed at our kids while we cooed at theirs. We had a whole floor to ourselves, with fresh tatami mats and soft futons. We nibbled on supermarket food, washed up in the communal bathhouse, and settled in for the night.

A beautiful day to walk along the shore

Part of our ryokan suite

Other countries should make nice rocks sacred too

Day 98: Yawatahama to Usuki

Hours walked: 11:00-2:00

Distance walked: 9 km

Cumulative: 2,154 km

Kyushu, our last island! We started the last chapter of this adventure today, after a smooth ferry crossing from Yawatahama to Usuki in which Tamar conked out, Levi ran amok, and Zadie and Tova gawked at the gambler who played the one slot machine for three hours straight.

Today was an almost-rest day: just a mellow stroll through the antique streets of Usuki. We visited the Nioza district, which felt like walking in the 1700s, and tried mustard seed onigiri for the first time (good!)

We spent an hour exploring the Stone Buddhas, a Japanese National Treasure. These Heian-era statues are carved into volcanic ash, with amazing detail given some are from the 8th century! The girls were most excited about getting to borrow bamboo walking sticks.

We also got ginger senbei cookies from the artisanal workshop (they’ve been making exactly the same cookies for 100 years), then commandeered our ryokan’s kitchen to make and eat dinner, and so to bed.

Edo-period temple in Usuki

The quiet streets of old town

The Stone Buddhas were some of our favourites from the whole trip

A moment of reflection

Still smiling :)

Day 99: Usuki to Uchiyama

Hours walked: 7:15-4:00

Distance walked: 26 km

Cumulative: 2,180 km

We got quite an early start this morning, in cool weather with a grayish sky. Several cars honked at us throughout the day, with enough friendly waves that we got the sense they were cheering us on, not telling us to watch out. Kyushu seems to be in our corner so far; at one point, a man in his 80s came across the street to give us a box of Pocky treats, and ask about our trip. He said “Gambatte!” about ten times and waved until we were out of sight.

The walking was smooth all day, especially once Levi nodded off around midday. There was one long, steady uphill, but Tamar powered up with the stroller. We reached the town of Bungoono (sounds Australian!) with time to spare, and shopped for warm hats, a fleece blanket and groceries.

Then we tiptoed the last kilometer to our stealth campsite, Uchiyama Park. The girls played tag, Tamar checked out the shrine full of Buddhas, and Jakob made 1-minute pasta amongst mosquitoes. A police car came by at 7pm, but just drove right through the parking lot as we huddled in our tents in the shadows. We read bedtime books and lights were out by 7:30.