Hours walked: 10:00 - 3:00
Jesuses seen: 14
Funerals observed: 1
Quote of the day: “I wish I could get stung by nettle, then I could be brave like Aurora!” -Tova, shortly before being stung
We let the kids sleep in and had a relaxed morning because we knew we didn’t have as far to walk. We all enjoyed the homemade plum jam on some crackers provided by our hostess while Jakob selflessly breakfasted on the leftover pasta. Most of the kids were energetic and bouncy knowing that our route was mostly downhill.
We briefly visited Austria’s highest pilgrimage site, where Tova brazenly climbed the pulpit before we noticed, then headed down the trail chatting as the valley floor grew larger. We saw many signs warning us of bulls, but saw not a single bull. We’re not sure whether we should be happy or disappointed. Our great lunch spot had a stunning view and some shade, making for a restful break. Tova befriended Butty the Butterfly (Zadie named it), which rested on her wrist until we were well on our way again.
The Alpe Adria Trail, in trying to stay off roads, often finds “bridging trails” which seem to be hit-and-miss in quality. Today we took one that made us wish we were walking on the road: The Hideous Nettle Trail. We left the forest road for a single-track that snaked down into the devastation of a clear-cut hillside. A few minutes in, I heard Aurora yelp up ahead: stinging nettle! “Ow ow ow,” she went, as the telltale bumps rose up and down her left leg.
We continued doubtfully down the trail, but it only got worse: for an hour, we picked our way between shattered tree debris and endless nettles. Zadie, not the world’s bravest child, was literally choosing every step like she was crossing a minefield, until I wrapped her in my down jacket and she joyfully plowed through all the nettles without getting a single sting. I got a couple, as did Tamar. Tova went from bragging to wailing within minutes as she tasted the nettle’s sting for the first (and second and third) time in her eight years.
We finally emerged from the brush with our legs smarting, and walked the rest of the way down to Stall. We were once again greeted on arrival by a brass band - unfortunately, they were celebrating something that was not alive.
As the mournful tones of the Funeral March faded behind us, it started to rain. Aurora found a dead sparrow in the hotel shrubbery. The thunder rolled overhead. All in all, kind of an ominous arrival.
We’ve learned that obtaining medication in Austria is very different to what we’re used to, which is unfortunate for Jakob whose body is rebelling against springtime. Although pharmacies are the only place any medication is sold, these are few and far between, and they only sell with great suspicion. We suspect Austrians are healthy people. Tamar took a quick via trip to the nearest town with a pharmacy so that we could all enjoy the great views without streaming snot and tears.
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