Thinking Allowed: In the shadow of Athena

Fate brought us over to Athena's domain. Well, more like the flight pattern of the cheap airline. But, I like to think Athena played a hand. It was in some ways both a beautiful and jarring welcome to the European continent. Beautiful to arrive and within hours be on a hill overlooking the big city eating spinach pies. Jarring because after the quiet and order of Australia our dulled jetlagged senses had to re get used to loud noise, navigating cars, and being accosted by salesmen. My slim understanding of economics tells me that if you need to hire someone whose sole job is to convince tourists to eat at your restaurant then probably the supply of restaurants exceeds the demand.

Our apartment was at the base of Filopappou hill - a more residential area with ivory white apartment blocks, streets lined with orange trees, and an active population of doted on cats. Giddy from our long trip our first day was spent in eating excess. Not sure why we bought a kilo of cookies or so much food at the restaurant. But, it worked out well because it turns out we have a team of people who like to eat cookies for breakfast. The girls liked the acropolis but not nearly as much as the old stadium where they were allowed to run around and walk on the stones. Our second day we went up Lycabettus hill which was quieter and steeper than the acropolis. After Jakobs long talk about how how there were no venomous spiders in Athens, we managed to come away from the walk with nettle rash and caterpillar rash ( never even knew this was a thing!)

Aurora and I journeyed across kilometers of streets lined with tourist knicknacks to make it to the closest bouldering gym which proved to be as full of character as the city itself. With a graffitied papered off exterior it took us awhile to figure out that we had arrived at our destination. We climbed in the dark bar like place with a young cheery gentleman who was as flexible as his hair was slick.

When I detailed my plans of taking a bus to go up a bigger hill the next day the girls gave me stern looks and rebelled. In place I took them to see a retired war ship, which they seemed to enjoy, and then we walked the 7 kilometers back. Having walked from the coast all the way back to the acropolis we all agreed that Athens was large and full of ivory apartment blocks and empty lots and if not for the cats the journey offered little appeal to hot tired children (good thing there were cookies in my bag).

We joked about the huge shiny building that is the acropolis museum - except then Aurora and I adored it for its architecture and content. Every museum should be built over ancient ruins that you can see through the floor. We learned at the museum that the reason the acropolis was such a holy and coveted spot (aside from the grandeur of the jutting rock) is because of a secret spring at its base. We learned that the ancient Greeks were incredible artisans and builders. We learned to furrow our eyebrows at the mention of Lord Elgin.

I wonder if the Athenians still worship the goddess Athena as an aside to their Christianity? Though, I suspect that much of their bonus devotion is now centred around cats. I admire the ability of Athenians to make a hobby of cafes. How I wish I had the patience and social circle to fritter away the evening and maybe even the days at an outdoor table. Although it seems key to this hobby is smoking (40% of population does so) so perhaps I am alright with leading a more solitary mobile life. Here is my favourite quote from Athens found on Hadrian's Arch that really captures the ancient vs modern of the city: "This is Athens, the ancient city of Theseus" and on the other side "This is the city of Hadrian and not of Theseus"