Jumping along the Danube

Day 4: Hainburg to Bratislava

Km: 15.5

Ice cream scoops eaten per child: 3

Today our family took two different paths. Jakob's back was sore and needed a break so he opted to do the day's kilometres by boat. I gave the kids the choice between walking or boating. Aurora, keen to earn her one candy per 5 kms, and to not have to share the scooter, decided to come with me. Since Aurora, Zadie and I had no stroller I decided we would veer off the bike path onto country roads. We left the hotel in high spirits, bidding farewell to our dirndl clad hostess. Aurora was excited to not only walk through the city wall but also to climb on top of it. Our small roads wound their ways between fields offering up beautiful views of castle, boats and ruins in the background. Our path went from cobbled to dirt tractor roads to grassy banks between fields to single track through thick riparian zone to old gravel roads by the river and finally to a paved and very busy bike path into Bratislava. It was all incredibly peaceful, enjoyable and beautiful though poor Aurora had a hard time scooting on the muddy or gravelly paths and we had to drag or carry the scooter much of the way. Around noon we stopped to breastfeed by the river and found ourselves surrounded by a group of people lying by the banks and    slowly coming to life after what looks like one heck of a party. It was fascinating to watch. We crossed into Slovakia at some point but even though we looked and looked for some sign of a border there was nothing except the gradual shift in language of the people around us. 

We strolled over the bridge into town at lunch time and met up with the others. It was a sunny Sunday and the quaint old town was overcome by tourists and locals alike walking around eating ice cream. The crowds were overwhelming but I quite enjoyed my poppy seed cherry flavour cone which was reminiscent of a Eastern European version of stracciatella. Poppy seed is such an unfortunately neglected food in Canada and needs a revival.

Day 5: Bratislava to near Cunovo

Km: 20

Trampolines jumped on: 2

Hours spent jumping on trampolines: probably 4

What a smooth day of walking we got! The weather was sunny and warm and our trail followed a levy along the water all day. Zadie fell asleep in the stroller five seconds after we started walking so I was able to push the two little ones for awhile while Jakob practiced French with Aurora and Sophia. Our trail didn't offer much shade but there were occasional kiosks with shade umbrellas where we could rest up and cool down or in the case of the children jump on the trampoline. 

We are staying at a dam which doubles as the Slovakian Olympic Whitewater Kayaking training site. The girls found yet another trampoline which they inhabited before, during and after dinner time, playing Bump Yeah, a simple and violent game they invented. There were only two vegetarian options on the menu so that's what we had. Even with bath time, we wrangled the girls into bed by 7:30, so they heard a large, exciting section of The Great Brain, the excellent book we are reading aloud and which has Aurora convinced that 1890s Utah was "an interesting life" and wishing she had a Great Brain too. 

Hainburg, as seen from atop its city wall like some conquering Turk

Because of its palace, we could see Bratislava recede all day

The riparian zone is covered in tall grass, across which long ripples of wind visibly travel

The boat ride to Bratislava was a dozen elderly Austrians and two extremely boisterous girls who were laughing like this the whole time. They are being sharks and fending each other off.