Up the mountainside

 Day 3: Dollach to Marterle

Hours walked: 8:15 to 4:30

Kilometres walked: 18.1

Quote of the day: “This Jesus is so bloody! So that means I get to say… bloody hell.” - Tova

Jesuses seen: 18

We started our day with trepidation. The girls weren’t excited about walking 18 kilometres where the second half was all uphill. The hesitation was made all the worse by the fact that every local we met informed us openly that the climb was too difficult for children.

So we left our cosy trekking hut with a group of semi eager participants. We stopped for last turns on the zip line, which ended in tears when it hit Tova in the mouth. No blood though! Not yet. 

The first few kilometres were smooth; we followed the Möll River and were greeted by horses and cows, many of them better-looking than me; Austrians really take care of their animals! As we entered the town of Mörtschach, we got juice and coffee at a guesthouse that was possibly open, given the reticence of the owner to serve us, relaxed in the schoolyard playground, then came across a brass band and jolly gathering outside the church. A few children in long white robes were being celebrated for reasons unknown, and we were plied with cross-shaped cookies and more juice (this time sparkling.)

And then we headed out of town and uphill. Mörtschach quickly shrank into the distance as our legs pumped up the incline. The kids were hot and grumpy, but trudged onwards mostly obligingly. For an hour or two, we steamed up forest roads with a decent grade, Tamar and Aurora chatting while the others did an endless Norwegian Dungeons and Dragons in which Tova was shrunk to the size of a pin, Zadie befriended a dozen pigs, and Sophia’s seagull used its magical strength to turn the grey horse into the evil wizard’s annoying little brother. 

Then we hit a slim trail spiking up the hillside, and suddenly things got hard. The path was beautiful, with pine needles underfoot and a single-track weaving among standing and fallen trees, but progress slowed as we picked our way uphill. The steep part was as steep as promised, and took a lot out of the little kids - but took even more out of the numerous ants that we stepped on. 

Finally we reached the lookout point high above the valley with glorious views, plus two comfy benches and the goriest effigy we’ve yet seen. Tova sort of hates the Romans now. The girls enjoyed their third lolly of the day, and then there were just a few km left until we reached Marterle, the highest pilgrimage site in Austria. 

The girls were exhausted but, after a giant dinner of pasta and three different local cheeses, sprung back to life like a jack-in-the-box. We’re staying in a cute mountain gasthaus where we’re the only residents; feels very luxurious having it all to ourselves, and also nicely rustic to spend an hour stoking the oven before the water agreed to boil.