Feeling Hungary!

Day 11: 

Start: Patince kupele 

End: kravany nad dunajom ( slept in Sturovo)

Kms: 17 & 6 more to walk to Hungary and back

Huge basilicas seen: 1 

We left bright and early as we knew we wanted to catch a bus from Kravany to Sturovo and, as it was Sunday, the bus was at 2pm. Our day involved leaving the comfort of our levee, as the bike path takes roads for this portion. We got to walk 4 kilometres on a busy road which was less than fun. Our children get distracted and seem to have trouble walking in straight lines while talking or thinking. Every time a car came by we would all have to jump into the grassy ditch. Later we spent a few kilometres on a lightly used country road. While there weren't many cars, those that came were going so fast we were worried they might start flying. It made us very happy to be bussing over the next section to Sturovo that was mostly on major roads with some poorly graveled bike path. 

We strolled into Kravany at midday and were happy to have arrived early as the bus came at one, not two! The bus ride was more stressful than walking, what with chivvying kids and things onboard, plus the driver was quite rude to us. He obviously didn't think much of tourists. I also find people just stare at us like we are the weirdest people ever. They really don't know what to make of us. It seems unfathomable to them that we might be walking with all the kids. We obviously aren't bicycling so what are we doing? So we just look out of place in tiny rural Slovakian towns with our team of little people with matted hair, our overloaded double stroller, and our English and funny sounding german ( Norwegian). We were relieved to get off the bus and leave the bus driver who was still staring at us with a friend while pointing and laughing. A few ice creams later and a coffee that made Jakob want to write poetry about coffee and we were feeling normalish again. 

We were tired but couldn't pass up seeing the giant basilica in Esztergom. It was well worth the walk, a massive, impressive building (at 100 metres, the tallest in Hungary). The girls gaped at the treasury, which was really chock full of crosiers and monstrances stuffed with gemstones of every colour. It sparked a long discussion about wealth and religion, and made Jakob want his own crosier too. 

Day 12

Start: Szob

End: visegrad

Kms: 18 ish

Number of ferries taken: 1

Number of people in a bad mood this morning: about 4

Well we can't always be happy and today we must have woken up on the wrong side of the bed. Jakob's back hurt,  Zadie was tired, mornings always annoy Tova, and I probably had little excuse but was not looking forward to getting on another bus and then a train to avoid 6 kms of busy road. Honestly, walking ten kilometres is in many ways easier than taking multiple modes of transportation with all our children and no way to communicate with stone faced drivers. It is surprising how little effort people make to be friendly. One might almost think it requires physical effort to smile. We ended up walking to the train station to make things easier though our moods were sluggish in picking up. I think our stroller must have known because we got a flat tire just as we reached the train station. Serves us right for being grumpy I guess. At least when we arrived in Szob we were greeted by a procession of twenty towngirls dressed in white dresses and flowers and ribbons singing. Hungary was looking like a happier place. I wish singing children dressed in white would show up every time my mood dipped. 

I let the children know my tolerance for squabbling was low and that even though I generally use positive reinforcement today I would resort to punishment if Tova hit her sister one more time. Tova immediately kicked Sophia to see if I would follow through and so the girls had to watch me eat a candy. Even though our grumpiness lingered it was the most beautifully day of our trip. We walked along what is known as the knee of the Danube with majestic fortified hills surrounding us. It was another public holiday so the shore and bike path were at their busiest. We met a jolly Frenchman in a trailside cafe who knew the owners and had twin 9-year olds - so suddenly we found ourselves spending a lovely hour chatting in French and being plied with strudels and crepes. 

We arrived in Visegrad in mid afternoon, with enough time for one activity. While the citadel looked tempting up on its hilltop, we were pooped and the swimming pools beckoned - so Zadie splashed happily in the kids tub, the girls leerily dropped water on the sizzling sauna rocks, and we all unwound from an arduous day. Guess the citadel will just have to wait til next time. 

The Basilica of Esztergom

Visegrad looks like an awesome place to defend

Rest stop on the Danube